And still more Morocco
May 6. Walked back to the wifi pub I used last night, and sitting outside, was able to use the internet (even though they weren’t open yet). I like that macs remember passwords. Easy bus ride to the border, where there seemed to be a mass exodus. Seems Ceuta is a better place for Moroccans to shop as it’s duty free. I had to go through a quick medical check as I am American. They’re checking for swine flu. As soon as I told them I had been living in Dubai, they let me through. From Moroccan side of border, I got a shared taxi to Tetouen and the driver dropped me at the edge of the medina. This part of the medina was the fruit/veg section and it was a madhouse of activity. People shopping, people trying to walk through, mopeds squeezing by, carts trying to maneuver through it all….. As I had no idea which way to go, I found someone who spoke a bit of English who was nice enough to offer his help, I took him to a phone booth, gave him a bunch of change and he called the hotel for me. Someone from the hotel told him where to have me wait. People here are fantastic (and it’s normal to give them a few dirhams for their help). This medina is a maze, there is no way I’d have been able to find my way.
May 7. At 10:00, met pre-arranged guide for a day’s excursion around the medina. And quite a day it was – 8 hours of walking. As expected, we made several stops in craft shops in hopes the guide could score a commission. Bought one carpet for a reasonable price, but I have no idea how I’m gonna get it home (may ship it). A visit to the artisinal school was a treasure. They have one exhibition room showing the best of the teachers work – amazing wood work, ceramics, and etchings. Even the ceiling was amazing. We did a very quick stroll through the tannery – not that it wasn’t interesting, it just stank. Stopped in an herbal shop that was fascinating to see bottles lined up on each wall. Was asked if I had any back trouble and as soon as I said yes, I was told to take off my shirt and lay down for a quick massage promoting his cure all oil. Was worth the few dollars I gave him. Clerk here pointed out that the tile work on the floor was Jewish stars. Mentioned that the original owners of the property were Jewish and also owned an attached hammam. The guide was very informative and I liked that he kept calling me professor.
May 8. As I knew I would get lost as soon as I stepped out the door, I asked a woman (same one that met me on arrival) to walk me to where I could catch a cab. Quick ride to the bus station and on to Chefchoen. The medina here is much more navigable so was able to find the riad with no trouble. People here are fantastic. Asked if they could do laundry and when they said yes, I asked how much it would be. “Free”. When asked if they had internet, they let me use the one and only computer (in their office). They even made a couple calls for me to check on hotel reservations in other places. That evening, told the guy at the desk where I was thinking about having dinner and he told me dinner and breakfast are included in the room rate. Guess that’s a no brainer! Strolled through the upper part of the medina and found it very tranquil. Similar to the one in Assilah, but a bit bigger. Same whitewashed homes with soft pastel colors. Another side fact is that I have seen more native English speakers in this town today then I have since moving to Dubai over a year ago.
May 9. 3:30 wake up – morning call to prayer. Though it was supposed to be at 5! Back to sleep. After breakfast, met a couple from Seattle and ended up wandering and shopping with them for a few hours (first stop was to post office where we both sent a box back to the states). They wanted to do a bit of blanket shopping. At the first shop, they picked 4 that they liked. They only one I was considering is one they bought. As I’m a strong believer in fate, I let it go. Sure enough, at the next shop I found one I liked even better and it was larger/cheaper than what they got. Just before lunch, we said our goodbyes and I gave them my email. Turns out we may be in Marrakesh around the same time, shall see. As I was eating lunch, Naomi walked in – they asked their taxi driver to wait so they could eat. Great view from the restaurant terrace of the main town square, complete with musicians inciting people to dance. Back to hotel quick to drop off my blanket and once again said goodbye. Hiked to the ruins of an old mosque on the hillside offering nice views of the whole town. Will shortly head out for dinner, so that about wraps up today (and Chefchoen), as tomorrow I catch an early bus to Fes and then another to Meknes. For those of you planning a visit to this fantastic town, I higly recommend that you stay at Dar Meziana – the rooms and common areas are beautifully decorated with some amazing tile/wood work and the staff bend over backward to help you in any way possible. They went far beyond the attention I received at any other hotel/riad here so far. Let me know if you want details.
