Meknes and nearby areas
May 10. A bit sad to leave Chefchoen, really enjoyed it here. Taxi (actually normal guy who agreed to drive me) to the bus station. Bus finally showed up an hour late. Once on bus, realized why it was late – clock is an hour slow. Later realized the clock went from 9:58 to 9:59 to 9:00. Guess that way no trip can take more than an hour. Arrived in Fes and next bus is in 3.5 hours. Shared taxi with couple Kiwis to train station. They bought their overnight tickets for Marrakesh and I bough mine for Meknes – leaves in an hour. Checked into hotel – a nice place, but after some of the riads, it just seems so drab. Good selling point is I was able to get on line (wifi), but I don’t think it was the hotels modem.
May 11. On doing more research, Volubilis and Moulay Idriss can be done in one day (and I set aside a day each). Today, will just explore around the hotel and go to the tourist info office. Did so, and must say, I’ve received more and better help from the random person on the street. The woman at the office would not even look at my map, kept pointing at her watch and after I asked my second question, she started ignoring me (she then grabbed her purse and walked out). I left also and on the street, she wouldn’t even tell me which direction to head. Anyway, found the place I was looking for – Moroccan equivalent of the Jewish Federation but it was already closed for the day.
May 12. Back to above office and got information about a local synagogue. Turns out it’s only about a block away. Was able to get inside for quick look. Is basically a converted office space. One room for the congregation to pray and one for meals (plus a couple small offices for staff and rabbi). Got a shared taxi to Moulay Idriss. Only a couple sights here. One is the mausoleum of the city’s namesake. Can only see it from the front as non Muslims can’t go in. From there, climbed 250 steep steps to get a nice panoramic view of the town and to see the only cylindrical minaret in Morocco. Decided to get even more exercise and walk to Volubilis which took about an hour. Weather was good and there was some beautiful scenery along the way – lots of wildflowers. Guide I got for Volubilis had a good sense of humor (although most of his explanations were by rote. Some highlights: the public toilet – slaves go in first to warm up the seats, then rich folk sit, shit, and talk politics (very appropriate – same thing out both ends); next to the toilet is the vomitorium, though I think the guide may have extrapolated; the mosaics here are very interesting and in great condition; at one point, the guide rushed off into one “room” and sat down on a large rectangular stone in the center. He then asked me if I would be interested in volunteering for something. I hesitatingly said OK, so he told me to straddle the stone facing him (he was sitting sideways). At that point he stood up to reveal a large bronze phallus embedded in the stone. If anyone’s interested, I can send the photo. Friend of guides acted as taxi driver for me and took me back to the hotel – otherwise, would have had to walk back to Moulay Idriss and hope to find a shared cab.
May 13. Quick taxi ride to the town’s main square – Place el-Hadim to see Bab el-Mansour (the grandest of all Moroccan gates) and the town’s medina. Near the gate, I found a small gallery space with an exhibit of some interesting paintings. I think the best way to describe them is “Dali meets Yellow Submarine” surreal with a touch of animation and humor. Across to the other end of the square takes one to the Dar Jamai Museum, considered one of the country’s best. An amazing collection of handicrafts (relating to royal Moroccan life). The next couple of hours was spent wandering (and getting lost) in the medina. Found one interesting shop with a lot of old Jewish artifacts. One piece I liked, but thought it was too expensive. Lunch was at one of the riads. Had a chicken and apricot (dried/sweetened). Apparently, a house specialty. Was quite nice. On to the mausoleum of Moulay Ismail. He is/was famous enough that non Muslims are allowed in. Oh, the oppulance!!. Petit taxi to train station so I could buy ticket for tomorrow to Fes, then quick walk back to hotel. And that wraps up Meknes (and surrounding area).
